Mylapore's myriad stories of its diversity

 

Mylapore's myriad stories of its diversity 

 

From the 1960's Mylapore in Madras has traversed a long way in all fronts and is slowly becoming unrecognizable. I recognized that recently when I went on a short trip from Teynampet to Santhome.

In the past, say 1960s, there were no Google maps.  Google maps came into existence in New Orleans only in 2005 but it wasn’t until as early as 2009 when Google maps started harnessing this information to deliver real-time traffic information and even now one can say it’s not really accurate in some areas.  The Google map shown was pretty clear and straightforward for me, one that i was used to navigating with.  But hold on. The share cab diverted and darted across routes that day (in Feb 2024) and eventually reached the destinations where people seated inside looked uncomfortably at one another and hoped they were going right.  They were straining their necks to see if they could get a hold of which route the cab was traversing.  None knew where they were going but the driver went on in his inimitable style, driving through small crowded lanes, effortlessly. That he had trips on his mind as per targets was evident.  He stopped the vehicle, asked one to get on and snapped at the man who called out saying “Hey Variya?”  He politely told the customer that “Hey Variya” is not the kind of Tamil he relished and questioned what kind of a temperament he had, to use such unparliamentary vocabulary.  

The driver seemed otherwise cool and said "erangu maa" when Luz came and to each, he shouted out when to alight. When my turn came, he forgot and i had to say " niruthunga pa, Naa eranga vendiya yedatha thanditom ". Because of Metro Rail constructions everywhere, with no sign boards anywhere, most people were clueless and yet went about their tasks without sulking. The google map showed my place had come, but all too early! The Map showed 8 minutes on my cell and I was closely monitoring the same from my hands but one dart from a street cut across so many and here I was, past the point which Google showed. The driver too said, ‘Oh Apdiya, Nalladhu maa, enganga?’. 

The Madras we were used to from the 1960's was a small hamlet and our life centered majorly around religious places of worship, be it the hovering of innumerable temples both big and small, a handful of elegantly designed churches or a couple of prominent mosques.  It wasn’t as crowded as it is now. The place had an old charm about it which is indescribable to me now. It was fascinating living there. The shops were plenty in the nooks and corners making us feel the comfort of everything around in a jiffy. There was no dearth of anything. Mylapore was self-contained. People came from other areas to shop here.   The place was much cooler than what it is now as there were plenty of trees providing shade in every bungalow.   For there was no apartments-culture then.  Big apartments came into being sometime in the late 1980’s.

Mylapore was famous for many reasons including the Mylapore Madisaar Mamis (MMM is a good acronym!)  who, literally hanging around everywhere in Mylapore and can be considered a class apart. It's a different story that women prior to the 1960s were uneducated, but they certainly were an enterprising lot and they ran the show at home in their 'Madisaars'.  (an outfit of 9 yards cloth designed for the chaste Brahmin women) My grandmother was also one of them.   They were full of love for their families but were strict too at the same time. You could not take them for granted. They would give you a piece of their mind with their eloquent, inimitable Brahminical language of conversing.  “Aduthaathu Ambujatha Parthela, ava athukaara sollaratha kettela …. The song of yester years still rings in my ears. My dad used to sing it loud and clear, evoking laughter from one and all at home.   

Mylaporean homes didn’t take to the concept of a fridge so easily.  For most, traversing to the market as an evening walk was perfectly fine. They would load their necessities for the day and return.  Many learnt to live without a fridge. We had ours, a huge one transported from Dayton, Ohio when appa was living in the USA and that was the size of an entrance door. It served us for a considerably long time and we also learnt to live without a fridge. Left to myself, as a therapist, I don’t have the need for a fridge but then all family members especially the current generation think I am weird. So, the big Samsung has come to stay, although there’s hardly anything I store in it. I am an old-fashioned woman and I prefer everything fresh from the market. Don’t like the previous day’s meal reheated so the investment is a waste, according to me. Many homes in Mylapore don’t have a fridge even today in 2024 and use the terracotta pot for obtaining cool water, which is good.  They are conscious that their throats should have warm or hot water to be able to sing well.

The Madrasis were good at Hindustani, Carnatic music and krithis, knew ragas at the tip of their fingers and singing was considered to be ingrained in their genes. They literally had gun throats. 

Their knowledge on household matters was second to none. They knew tips on cooking and each, be it Iyers or Iyengars, were hooked to their traditional recipes handed down through generations in their browned books with faded ink, hardly visible now. In those days, as it was not a digital platform, copies of recipes used to flout around and Mamis would take time to discuss the intricacies of ingredients and note them down carefully.

I too had my share of recipes handed down through the ages although I must admit the papers have crumbled with age and with the artistic, careless nature of my disposition, haven't really looked after it properly. But thankfully the volumes of "Samaithu Par" by Meenakshi Ammal were bounded at home by my dad. He was a meticulous one at that.  It was a book that was gifted for new brides then as it served as a ready reckon for almost all South Indian, vegetarian delicacies. Every Brahmin household would possess this book (Part 1 ,2 ,3 etc ) with pride in their kitchens and flaunt it. I too do although i don't know to read Tamil fluently.  It serves more as a memoir from amma with her signature and date on it for posterity. The book’s specialties seemed endless, making vegetarian cuisine seem truly special.  Of late, the ‘Samaithu Par’ book is available in English too.

The Mylapore vegetables market surrounding the Kapaleeshwarar temple tank and its maada veedhis is a good one with fresh, delectable evening vegetables and the  Keerai (spinach ‘n’ greens) is so well arranged that it makes you want all of it! The hawkers need not have to entice you, their products would do the talking. Everything sold would be fresh and competitive.  All the Mamis were known to each other as there weren't so many families then as we have now. They would chat in their inimitable chaste Tamil and no denying, didn't feel shy to come out in their ‘Madisaars’ to make purchases.

Be it a birth or a death, nose piercing ceremony or a pregnant woman 's Valakaapu, every ritual was celebrated with abated breath.  The Mamis were a gossipy lot, each had their own tales to carry sitting on the ‘thinnai’ (front courtyard) all together, executing some tasks or the other that needed their attention for the days that lay ahead. It was either pounding of jaggery or cutting ingredients for making pickles, or making broomsticks, etc., the umpteen mundane tasks which were thankless.  Life went on smooth without any hiccups.

There was festivities where they would all unite and engage in voluntarily; each would be hell bent to outshine the other in terms of their skills - be it Kolam, Rangoli, Cooking, or preparing Vadaams and Vattals , there was none to beat this clan . . . where on earth do they get this bubbling energy  to execute tasks one after the other ( making hay while the sun shines)  is something that needs some research upon . Even 80-year-olds went about the chores as if it was some ‘jujubee’ for them. They would do it as a team collectively with no egos. It was full of learning. They took such pride in dispatching the same to their daughters and Daughters-in-Law alike with prejudice towards none. Every child of the family procured their quota of homemade stuff for the whole year.  And then came next year, and the next with same gusto until they were, sadly no more. Each season was well utilized, especially the peak of Summer. Agni Nakshatra period was a celebration to them in a way is what I used to feel watching my mother-in law and her daughters and daughters-in law take to the season with such glee.

For me, although I was born in Madras, I was more of a Himachali girl in this respect, with Phagli being my second home town (my dad and his family being settled there then) Appa was born in Himachal, grew up and studied up to college there, so Shimla is where I liked to be at this time of the scorching summer in Madras. But not always I got a chance to go there during summer and at times I would visit for my winter there! Man proposes God disposes is so true in this aspect. I was torn between the love for Madras and Phagli! The specialities of Phagli were totally different, enticing and worth writing separately. (India’s North Vs South are a rich experience)

Sometimes it made me feel we had many ‘Jhansi Ki Ranis’ and Indira Gandhis in our midst at our very Mylapore. They could rule a nation albeit the fact they were uneducated. They hardly ever made mistakes. The grandmothers of that era were amazing.  They commanded respect those days from all at home as they knew many holistic therapies, ‘naatu vaidyams’ and techniques. In fact, I learnt much of my holistic routes through my mother. Her grandmother could remove jaundice with just two needles and a tumbler with water - reciting just Vishnu Sahasranamam! It was incredibly unbelievable. The water would turn completely yellow and the eyes of the jaundiced person would have no trace of yellowness whatsoever. She was a pious soul. She would not charge a penny to anyone for the services she rendered and many visited her on a daily basis. It's a pity that none of her grandchildren including my mother ever learnt such holistic skills from her.  I am the only one with a streak of her gene possibly, as i practice holistic therapies as a healer. But i wish i had known to do what she did to save people suffering from jaundice! I could have done the needful to save my mother's life from a relapse that snatched her away in 1988.

Mylapore Mamis are distinct in their approach. You can't mistake them for another place. They have that Mylaporean aura that mystifies them. Incidentally I may mention, my grandfather (Mom’s dad)- Kalyanasundaram a strict disciplinarian, was a Headmaster and English teacher at P.S. High School, Mylapore.  My grandparents raised their family of ten children in Mylapore.  My grandfather had his students visiting him after they left college, got married and settled abroad in their distinguished careers. Many Mylaporeans add to the brain drain of our nation, considering many top schools and educational institutions were in and around Mylapore precincts.

Bhagwan Sri Sathya Sai Baba had personally opened the  Chennai- Mylapore chapter of Sai Samiti and till date it functions at Lady Sivaswamy Kalalaya  school  on every Saturday at 6-7pm . This is a school that is centrally located, very close to the Bhavan, Vegetable market, the famous Kapaleeshwar temple, Giri Trading agency and Rasi silks. There are innumerable temples in Mylapore with faith and holiness oozing. 

When you are in Mylapore, there is nothing that can escape your attention. Everything snarls at you so invitingly in such perfection when you walk around the ‘mada veedhis’ be it food joints or sabhas, that a day in Mylapore is just not sufficient even for a tourist. The Mylapore filter Kapi/coffee is distinct in its flavour. 

Foreigners take to this place as it appeals to them ... There are the cows that roam by amidst the appalling crowds of a festive occasion, who are treated as 'Adithi Devo Bhava' and are fed by residents. Foreigners invariably take to such eco-friendly living. They like eating out of banana leaves as against stainless steel plates and many foreign Christians who reside here long enough even take to sport the Sindoor and bindis on their forehead that could put the current generation of Hindu girls to shame ( i am  shamelessly no exception). They even drape the sari so well in a jiffy! I have quite a few friends who take to this living in a traditional way observing fasts too for Ekadasi,  Sankatahara Chathurthi , and so on.   Is it the place that allures them or the living style here is difficult to say. I guess it's both. But they have taken to it as a fish takes to water and that intrigues me.

But then there are those foreigners who I have seen, who come down to learn Bharata Natyam or music from Kalakshetra for several years, so much so they imbibe our culture effortlessly.  As I have been a guardian to many of the youngsters as also my parents earlier, we come to know their sentiments and steadfast approach in pursuing all that is cultural here.  They become more Indian than you or me. 

My brain takes me back to those memories when many foreigners in the 1970s who i am still acquainted with now, learnt how to ‘set’ the curds. It was a technique and they loved my mother's yoghurt that was set so fresh and thick. It was like having a piece of cake! It is an art to make curds and yoghurt is what I learnt after they told me that theirs didn't come out quite like Amma 's and hence the demand for her fresh curds! There is a difference between curds and Yoghurt is what I came to know much later.

My mom, unlike her mom and grandma was an educated woman. She was a rich balance and blend of them and the corporate woman that was ingrained into her as a result of being educated. She served as SG Auditor in the Accountant General's office. She was a no-nonsense woman and got the respect of both men and women in her official assignments during her lifetime.

If i am what I am in terms of tradition and knowledge from the relevant books, it's thanks to her upbringing.  She was a voracious reader. I recollect after her demise I donated all the books she had to Ranade Library in Mylapore at Luz in memory of her as her quantum of study encompassed many subjects in depth and it could serve someone better. The Ranade library is one of the oldest in Mylapore and the upstairs of that library would host many prominent public speakers. It was a place that had a lot of earnest people knocking on the doors for knowledge.

If you look closely, this literacy bug and penchant for books predominantly rests from Mylapore. We have prominent historians, laureates and academicians like Dr. S. Radha Krishnan, Sir CV.Raman , S. Muthiah , Cho .Ramaswamy, T.S Gopal , N.Sridhar,   V.Sriram , Vincent D' Souza , TAG  Centre's  Chari, Chinni Krishna and his wife Nandita of CP Art Foundation and many more unsung heroes who contributed to making this a unique gift for mankind with their presence in no small measure .

Mylapore is thus host to a myriad of colors is my view of perception. It is growing wildly and widely in the right direction.  We can boast of a rich and varied heritage with the Mylapore's historical walks.  The artistic collaborations at Nageswara park came in vogue in the 2020s.  And not to forget, the enchanting dance and music kutcheries in particular, of a frenzied December Season that has renewed a piped interest, revived generations on a cultural note at the prestigious Music Academy.

The NRIs invariably booked tickets to visit their kith and kin during this Special Music Season to be able to enjoy the performances with that hot cuppa filtered coffee from the Sabhas at a pittance compared to their style of living abroad. Music Academy, R.R. Sabha, Bhavans Hall, and many more for the asking of a grand cultural nite.

Mylapore 's Marina beach in Madras (MMM) nee Chennai is the second largest beach in the world. although we have Bessie’s beach and some other private beaches, there's nothing to beat the Marina beach overlooking the prestigious Govt buildings and Queen Mary’s college. That evening breeze in summer is something which is a must see for a nice time-pass and makes good Comara die. The pattanis and sundals, mango bites with a dash of chillies, the bondas and bajjis, chats and samosas with the Kili Josium (where the parrot from a cage is made to talk and prophesy) makes it a perfect evening for a family with kids or even lovers.  A scenic beauty of the beach with its waves lashing the shores with the high tides of a Pournami can make your evening spell bound and mesmerized. You couldn't ask for more. With not a penny in your pockets, you could laze around and just sit watching the waters glittering on any normal day. The horizon view (where sun and land meets) is very clear from the Marina, where there is a lighthouse and many ships seen. D. Hemachandra Rao of Madras Coin Society was an expert with his exclusive display of Coins, Stamps and Memento collections on lighthouses and ships during his lifetime.

The All-India Radio office opposite to the Marina and next to the Police Office is also a place where every minute there is bustling activity with news being relayed, interviews and music presentations. It is a rather quiet office with recordings happening and famous personalities hopping in for their prime slots. From the outside, to any onlooker it might seem to be just another Govt office, but in actual it is not so. From my personal experience there for a couple of interview recordings, i can state that it is a place which is meticulously designed and maintained to usher in the right talents.

The sun rose. Faint melody of the flute wafted along the morning breeze. The enchanting music could be heard louder. Yes, you guessed right. It was a practice session of a flautist, a foreigner who had come all the way from France. She was N Ramani 's student and her life circled around Mylapore. There were many like her who play the mouth organs and other instruments like the violin too, sitting on the shores of the Marina at different spots which appeal to them and which inspires them to play on, dedicatedly and undisturbed.

How can one forget to make a mention of the Jay walkers, Joggers, the Yoga therapists doing pranayama and asanas, cyclists, cricket players and skaters and laughter club members ... all getting a slice of the sun's morning rays with a good start of the day? The elderly come with helping hands too.

Therapeutically speaking, that morning hour before sunrise and before sunset has abundant good vibes for connecting with positivity and maintaining good health. There's no reason to be in bed under covers, missing such charms of Mylapore. You are missing a major part of the glories of life and Vit D too, if you can't enjoy what Nature throws at you as freebies. Grab it as you watch the wriggling crabs.

There were many Mylaporeans who were globally known viz., Movie Director K. Balachandar who lived in Ranga Road, Kamala Hassan  in Venus colony , Sir CV Raman, Dr.S.Radhakrishan, CharuHassan at Eldams road , Politician Subramanian  Swami of Santhome ,  Actress Hema Malini who earlier lived in Mylapore with her  parents Jaya  and Ramanujam Chakravarthy ( film producer ),   Suhasini and Maniratnam who made their stunning and impeccably furnished home in Alwarpet, Vazhuvoor Ramaiah Pillai , Vyjayanthimala Bali, Chitra Vishweshwaran, Sudharani Raghupathi, Sudha Raghunathan, Veena Balachander , Veena Gayathri in Alwarpet, TVS family – Ratnam in Teynampet,  and well, the list goes on  … And many others as   Randor Guy (his daughter Priya lives in Mylapore), who were linked or drawn to Mylapore, although residing elsewhere, by virtue of their extended families, passions, dedicated spirit and hard work put in their chosen field which did not go unnoticed.  That they had inputs for, and centering all around for the likes of Mylaporeans shows Mylapore is not redundant but worthy of being spoken about, small though it remains as an insanely cute, energized, and vibrant Hamlet.

No fly-by-night operators here as the hawkers are an organized lot and engage in brisk business.  They leave no stone unturned and know their clients by the palm of their hands. They know exactly what each has come for, check to give you the latest and don't waste your time.  Be it the bed cotton mattress seller or the photo frame merchant, footwear dealer or suitcase repair undertaker, they all suggest what' s best for you before proceeding with the job. They were earlier on jobs handed to by their previous generations. But not anymore. The trend now has switched to taking up corporate jobs and assignments abroad due to the lure of money and what it offers for a better standard of living. That pass-on, a natural phenomenon from generation-to-generation’s existence was a thing of the not-too-distant past. All this has transpired within my lifetime, where I have been a living witness to the past and now in less than a span of 60 years.

There are places which speak 1000 fascinating words just by their pictures. And Mylapore is just one of them. You can’t find a single slaughter house anywhere in the near vicinity unlike in Kattupakkam, beyond Porur where, practically a street has more than one butcher’s paradise.  A place tells you of its locals. It is said that the kind of upbringing, tastes and rudiments of living, dialects, civilized culture and behavior can make or break your heart. Of course, there are exceptions everywhere but this is a general norm or yardstick to go by.  Mylapore is a peaceful location in the Metro City, which can be considered as an extension to the rural Agraharams we find in Trichy or Madurai. With the pace of time, it has developed to match with City standards but still has that loving and endearing, age-old feel about it, which somehow cannot be overlooked. It is that uniqueness about it that draws people to Mylapore. The overall climate is different once you enter Mylapore.  The dialect, although Tamil is still a tinge different with the Mylapore Mamis and Mamas who are conspicuous with their presence everywhere in the whereabouts.   You can find everything in close proximity and nothing which is unavailable here in Mylapore. It is self-contained and people come from other areas to cater to their needs here.

 

MYLAPORE LIFE STYLE

A spiritual outlook, in a way, is the pride of Mylapore. It lies in the strength of its people who make it a busy place. With the timely crowing of the cocks in the wee hours, each precious dawn opens up to a fine start. The women wake up and start their day as early as 4 AM to clean their entrances with water and cow dung (to keep the place sterile and infection free) and put Kolams (an artistic display by hands with rice powder) before sunrise. That is the respect they show for the Sun God.  Traditionally, it is believed that Goddess Lakshmi will visit your homes if you do so. Also, the first act of providing food for the ants is through the rice powder contained in the drawing of Kolams. Thus, this practice is mandatory here and is looked upon with disdain if you do not for some reason get up early and follow the norms.  The stray cows are also fed in many orthodox homes with the previous day’s left-overs, kanji, etc.  In the evenings too, before sunset many homes wash their entrances yet again as a mark of respect to Sunset.   In many homes till date, the elderly, following traditions do not eat after Sunset. Their last meal is just before Sunset. They follow this in line with the birds, crows, squirrels and other creatures who too abstain from eating after sunset.  Holistically speaking this is very good for one’s health too. When one’s last meal is before sunset, the food eaten gets digested easily.  What’s more, you get access to a 12 hr fast which is good for your gut, thyroid and general health.

Brahma Muhurtham, (4.30 am to 6 AM) the sacred hour of the Gods is followed implicitly as this place is surrounded by temples. One can also hear the sound of calling for ‘Namaaz’ if you are near to the mosque and one cannot but get up to a fine start of meditation and chanting, following the prescribed rituals after one’s morning ablutions.  Thus, spirituality is ingrained in the way of life here.

‘Namasmarana’ is also by bhajans, singing the praise of the Lord and on Thursdays, Mylapore gets its quota, thanks to the Sathya Sai devotees in the locality. The beautiful Shirdi Sai Temple has gained tremendous importance, enough to have people pouring in from foreign countries too! What was once a small temple has become big enough to hold important programs of public interest and with donations has become a distinct landmark. Thursdays and Sundays there is a heavy crowd with ‘Narayana seva’ (Annadanam) also being catered to. The nearby shops catering to the requirements for pooja at the temple get busy and everything you would need is available at the drop of a hat for devotees who throng the place with full faith and devotion. So much so, traffic was made a one-way a few years ago, to ensure safety and convenience for all, considering major changes in the development of Mylapore.

Of course, some prominent landmarks too, sadly had to go now in 2024, as Mylapore is soon to be getting connected to Metro Rail and work continues to be in progress even at the end of the year.

There are tea vendors and filter coffee sellers in small bunks with tiffin on their menu cards. For people who prefer eating out or are single, there is clean food available for the asking. The ‘Jannal Kadai shop’ is a famous one that caters from 11 am to 5 pm (the shop is named rightly so, as it opens out through a window opening with supplies of tasty tiffin as bajjis, bondas , pakodas , dahi vada,  etc.,   is served through the window opening  and people can have it standing out, as in buffets);  The Jannal Kadai eat out is something special and unique in Mylapore , and has been in existence for a long time.  There are regulars who will vouch and swear by its taste. I came to know of this place when an actor-friend introduced me after his drama program at one of the Sabhas. He was one of their loyal customers.   Certainly, I can vouch that that it was very tasty prompting me to try out one item after the other, although initially I did feel shy standing on the road and eating it, considering I was not used to such things. But I realized that Jannal Kadai had so many people coming and eating this way and this was in fact, the norm.

My friend told me to just watch how the set-up is. And I observed.  There was a window that was open and poojas were happening inside. One could hear the same. Soon after ‘Brahmaarpanam’ (the sanctity and practice of offering food to the Gods first), initially just a right-hand darted out of the window and I was startled. I was not too sure if this was my cup of tea having bites in these kinds of small, road-side joints housed in small compounds. Fear gripped me as I was a kidney donor, having donated one way back in 1982. I had to take care of what I eat.  I wasn’t used to eating out. And least of all, like this.  My friend ordered the items and, in a swish, came the hand yet again out of the window containing the items. With trepidation, I held out my hand and took the items for us. I wondered where we were to sit. My friend laughed at me and said there is no seating etc. We have to stand and eat like in dinners at 5 stars but on the roads! I looked at him in disbelief and ate my share.  Would you like something else he asked and I found myself unconsciously asking ‘why not’? So, you can imagine how tasty it was. That was my first unforgettable experience at Jannal Kadai with a celebrity actor-friend.  We had a taste of assorted stuff and all the items were, beyond a shadow of doubt, good to say the least.  I didn’t dare to tell my dad of the Jannal Kadai episode.  I am sure he would have loved it. He was a hardcore fan who frequented Sangeetha and Saravana Bhavan. Would he reprimand me for eating at such joints? I couldn’t care less, I don’t know.  I had enjoyed it. I would definitely recommend it to anyone who loves to hog a nice, tasty, fresh n hot tiffin.

There are other eateries that start early and close early. You need to be aware of the shop timings so that you don’t get disappointed. Vegetarian meals are good here in Mylapore. Anna Vilas restaurant at the cross roads of RK Mutt road and opposite Kapali temple is a recent addition to good meals served in an air-conditioned ambience on a banana leaf.   Nitya Amritam, Saravana Bhavan, Adyar Grand Sweets & Snacks, are on the mada Veedis to the Northend followed by Karpagambal Mess on the East which has been in existence for almost a century now.  Sangeetha is on the southern end close to a charitable trust, that rents out its premises for family functions and sevas.  The Trust is hygienically maintained and is one of a kind, with a traditional ambience, befitting Mylapore precincts. 

As you walk straight inside the Vasanta Bhavan restaurant, tucked inside to the left is a small Shiva temple which people hardly know of. It is away from the eyes of buzzling and maddening crowds.  You would least expect a special small enclosure that houses this temple, hidden beyond the designated car park of the hotel.  I came to know of this small temple through a foreigner (Late) Sylvie Lecerf, a flautist from France who introduced me here on a Shivarathri.  She silently performed there with her flute to my amazement, connecting with the Lord. She said that it was her go-to place when she needed to be by herself.  When she was in India, she lived in that area and hence knew the nooks and corners well.  The poojas and abhishekams performed there in that temple stole my heart. Peace reigned supreme. It was a special feeling. There were seating arrangements for about fifty comfortably to watch the proceedings on the special night, year after year.   Be sure to check out this one on a Shivrathri.

 

SUMMER ARRIVALS

With the onset of Shivarathri, it is said that the chills of temperature flee away and we thus find ourselves in the midst of the season of Vadu mangaas or Mavadus. Every summer by the beginning of March and right up to June, Mylapore can boast of its new arrivals of fresh green tiny Maavadus… the Maavadu is eagerly awaited by all, with no exception. After all, who on earth doesn’t want the tasty pickles that are preserved for the whole year during this season? Everyone longs to take their picks and stock their larders. They carry their purchased booties across their shoulders, get assistance from their children who carry them grudgingly or hop on two wheelers; some order huge quantities and get it delivered at their door step. They are those who are into the business of making pickles.  This is a frenzy time…., Vadu Manga vangiyacha? Enna velai ku vikkardhu? Indha varusham ninga evlo vanginel, mami? .....  I can hear the local echoes in the streets!

I am also game for this seasonal booty but wait until the prices come down a bit. I don’t rush as I know the markets well. Plus, I have my mango trees at home being a passionate gardener and hence take it easy.  My Sister-in-Law, also a Mylaporean after her marriage, is one who has learnt the art of making all kinds of pickles from my mother-in Law who was an expert at making pickles for the entire family of no less than fifty members.  I marveled at the way this third standard educated lady, my MIL- (late) Seethalakshmi Srinivasan of Madurai ran the household with such gusto and pride. She came from a large family and had eight children herself and each of the eight families after their marriage, during her lifetime would get 5 kgs of everything each year from her end which included: tasty papads, paruppu urundais for kozhambus , appalams, vadams , vattals  and not to mention different kinds of pickles…. Mahaani kizhangu, Lemon, Narthanga, Maa vadu, Kili mooku manga, Nellikai, Green Pepper and Manga, mixed vegetable pickle, tomato pickle, ginger pickle, …. It was endless.   I miss her now. We don’t realize the value and the single-handed effort of our kith and kin until they are gone and that is so true. We take them for granted. Memories go to that day when she would ask me to taste them. I was the unofficially designated taster of the family, being the youngest daughter in law.  I had to say if everything was ok or if it lacked anything, based on which she would proceed. That was just to keep me happy, for I was like the peeping Tom who would come to see what was happening in the kitchen for I hardly knew any cooking then.  It would be so perfect, considering she was an expert; I enjoyed being the taster, so I could ask for more!  And she knew that only too well.  

She was selfless in her preparation of these and all her daughters- in-law got the same share as her four daughters.  As her daughter in law, I feel ashamed that I didn’t learn enough of these from her … but then when she was alive, she insisted on doing it herself as she was not confident of my culinary hands. She wouldn’t let anybody into her territory -- the Kitchen. It was hers and only hers. Nor did she allow anybody during her lifetime to enter into that storeroom which housed everything for the entire family. She stored even her cash there inside rice or dhal bags or somewhere in that locked storeroom.  Women of the past were shrewd and they didn’t have costly handbags like us. But they smartly handled their monthly bills single handedly during their lifetime in these yellow Manja pai.    My sister-in-law, the eldest one now nearing her eighties, says she is open to my watching her do the pickling and ok to my assisting her. That’s a relief! In a way I am blessed for, Lalitha akka, now living in Triplicane took all the recipes from her mom after her marriage and retained them safely.  Traditionally passed on recipes are worth their weight in gold.  And she has parted them all to me, which comes in handy for passing on to the next gen.

As a matter of fact, I don’t remember women of the past ever buying Kai murukku, thenguzhal, thattai , sheeda, vella sheedai, Ribbon pakoda or mixture etc. It was made at home for all occasions. Now Mylapore flaunts of so many mamis undertaking the same from their homes, with orders especially after Covid set in and the activity thrives as a flourishing business.  Now, we have food orders undertaken and packed by Mylapore Mamis and caterers. They are sent to destinations through apps for breakfast, lunch and dinner. That’s 360 degrees change from the past.

In my school days, the batter grinding was handled by us at homes and it is only now after 1995 that these are being sold online and there are umpteen shops that cater to manufacturing these. When we were in school until the late 1970s, I distinctly remember my younger sister and I had to grind for idly batter and medhu vadai every alternate day. This we would do after school hours. There was no way we could get Batter (mavu) otherwise, as readymade ones packed as now did not exist then. We had to sit on the grinding stone (attukal) alternately and take turns to complete it and clean it as well with a brush. It would easily take us an hour and a half.  Idly and dosai were staple food in the South. There were no mixie grinders too then, so, grinding of masala for gravy and chutneys were executed by us through the (ammi kal) stone. We would be provided the time table of what to do after school hours and we had to implicitly carry them out. That was essentially the task of girl children laid out in traditional Brahmin homes, whether we liked it or not.  In a way it was an exercise and that is how we learnt.  In Summer, on some days, for the weekend, we had to grind extra batter for dahi vadas, which would just slurp down our small mouths in a split second.  Families that had plenty of servants would probably execute this chore through their helpers.

Coming to transport facilities, there were hardly 100 cars then passing by in the 1960s. You could dance on the streets and walk past on the pavements even at 10 PM without fear. We had a Standard car and our family would go for trips to Tirupathi and other places. Petrol then costed much less. It was less than Rs 20 a gallon. Today in 2024, petrol costs a whopping Rs 190 per litre.  I have no idea as I sold my car and now travel by public transport.

In those days I had my ‘Silver Plus’ , a three- geared Enfield’s  two wheeler  which was so handy in my college days . I roamed right upto Pondy in it. But you could count on the number of women riders and drivers then.   Now, many women auto drivers exist, making life easy for late night travels and emergencies.

Mylapore's Mylai railway station isn’t clean but its such a convenience for daily office commuters.  The station could do with some greenery , cleaner facilities and get renovated as it is leaky during rainy season. But thankfully with online facility, most people now resort to buying tickets from their homes. The only drawback is we still have TASMAC which functions close by which is an eyesore with drunken brawls! How can I forget to make a mention of our khakhi-clad cops who have a regular affair of shunting them away with a lathi charge when things go beyond control.

Every dawn and dusk is conspicuously unique in our Mylapore and you get to know the difference of living in other places only if you are a traveler, having lived in the North, East or West of the country to know the complexities and impact it creates on individuals, be it locals or foreigners alike.

Another ten years from now, I am unsure if Mylapore will still have the same homeliness and friendly surroundings as the place is changing fast. With Metros in place, coming up shortly, we already lost  out on a lot of eminent landmarks that were there for no less than half a century or more. Jaffers Icecreams , Bombay halwa house,  and many down that line have

sadly vanished. They brought happy memories of school days when we dashed out regularly with close friends and had a rollicking time ragging each other, hugging and patting backs while our tongues had a feast.

To top it all, like the icing on a cake : with a slight deviation to Madras, which houses Mylapore ----  The city of "Madras" celebrates its 385^th year - MADRAS DAY dedicated to all Madrasi’s

Madras day celebrated its 385th year in 2024 and it is a matter of pride to all Madrasi's. (Late) Muthiah of Madras Musings, Vincent D Souza of Mylapore Times , Sridhar Venkataraman , a historian , Vikram  Raghavan, a domain expert in maps relating to Madras and many others were responsible to ensure that the history of our 'Madras Nalla Madras'  is rejoiced and celebrated year after year, despite the fact that many prominent  landmarks have gone,  which made Madras a place to be endeared. 

A few landmarks have managed to survive and we earnestly hope they continue their legacy in the years to follow. Some buildings are in a crumbling state with peepul trees growing from cracks and crevices, while others have dilapidated walls with low maintenance covers. But history will live on to regale their past for the next generation. Another five years up, and "Madras day" will probably be recognised by their unique "Food walks"!

Every place in Madras (aka) Chennai has distinct food preferences. Did you know that? They speak of the history, culture, traditions, preferences and presence of the locals pervading the locality. The Mint Street Walk commencing from the Washermanpet Metro, curated by Sridhar Venkatraman recently had the distinctive North Indian flavour to it. There were masala milks, Khakhras by the Gujrati and Rajasthani communities, different varieties of Bhels, Pani puris, Chats, sweetened buns such as the Malai bun, chocolate bun, palkova bun, butter bun and bun butter jam that’s typical of the local culture.

Vincent D Souza 's walk in Mount Road commencing from the Hindu office shared how the colonial rule under the British had engaged the Anglo-Indians community and the Goans in particular for service as they were the heart and soul of music for bands at Govt. Ceremonies. They read music and thus found their presence in clubs like Gymkhana and Cosmopolitan too.  Mount road was a grand stretch of road that ran over the flyover and a hub for many activities like boxing, theatre, cinema, night clubs, food kiosks, hospitals, pharmacies, restaurants, Electronics, and more.

Madras from the 1960s has changed vastly.  Mount Road may not come alive with shops again but the people are sure to come at night to hang around past midnight, as, with ‘Geetham’, the new entrant giving a tough competition with Buharis and Bilal, life certainly has changed.

MALINI  KALYANAM